It is becoming common
knowledge that Greek wines are the New Wines of the Old World. After
centuries of producing low quality wines, Greece is finally back on the rise.
With over 300 native grape varieties, it is no wonder that every wine
professional out there is taking a closer look at the wines. It is not unusual
to see Greek wines on most wine lists; even the ones that you need an hour to
read, with page after page of Bordeaux and Burgundy you will find a selection
of Greek wines.
A newcomer to the
Greek wine world should start with the wines of Naoussa. Naoussa is a
part of Macedonia in northern Greece and an area dedicated exclusively to the
Xinomavro grape. Xinomavro wines are normally released in the market with
two years of age, having spent time in oak and then in the bottles. Xinomavro
wines are complex, with strong tannins, good structure and elegance. Aromas of
red fruit, tomatoes, olives, dried prunes, tobacco, nuts and hints of spices.
Haroula started
out her career as a viticulturist, and work for most of the vineyard
owners in Naoussa and Amindeon. Over the years along with her husband
they have purchased vineyards in Naoussa; simply because she wanted to verify
the instructions that she was dispensing to her clients. She explained
that is one thing to give text book recommendations and another when you have first-hand
experience. Eventually, with the vineyards mature and in full production the
next logical step was to produce her own wine, that’s how Argatia winery was
born.
A winery history in a glass - Argatia |
The first wine
released was a 2004 Xinomavro, a white blend of Malagouzia, Assyrtiko and
Athiri was added a few years later and more recently a red blend of Xinomavro,
Negoska, Mavrodaphne and Moschomavro.
I was lucky enough
during my visit to taste every Xinomavro Argatia produced since 2005;
and I have to say, it was an amazing experience.
Currently available in
the US.
Argatia Xinomavro 2009
A blend of three
different vineyards, organically cultivated with sandy clay soil planted with
two clones of Xinomavro. Aged in American and French oak for 12 months. The
wine has a bright ruby color, with aromas of red fruit, violets, and tomatoes.
On the palate the wine is earthy, mineral and spice.
Argatia white 2013
This blend of
Malagouzia, Assyrtiko and Athiri has spent just about 6 hours on the skins, and
aged in stainless steel. Mineral notes combined with lemon, peach and
herbs on the nose. Medium-bodied with balanced acidity on the palate with great
structure and a long finish.