Saturday, October 18, 2014

Argatia Winery, Naoussa Greece

It is becoming common knowledge that Greek wines are the New Wines of the Old World.  After centuries of producing low quality wines, Greece is finally back on the rise. With over 300 native grape varieties, it is no wonder that every wine professional out there is taking a closer look at the wines.  It is not unusual to see Greek wines on most wine lists; even the ones that you need an hour to read, with page after page of Bordeaux and Burgundy you will find a selection of Greek wines.
A newcomer to the Greek wine world should start with the wines of Naoussa. Naoussa is a part of Macedonia in northern Greece and an area dedicated exclusively to the Xinomavro grape.  Xinomavro wines are normally released in the market with two years of age, having spent time in oak and then in the bottles. Xinomavro wines are complex, with strong tannins, good structure and elegance. Aromas of red fruit, tomatoes, olives, dried prunes, tobacco, nuts and hints of spices.

My first winery visit in Naoussa this past summer was Argatia, a winery founded in 2000 by Panayiotis Georgiadis and Dr Haroula Spinthiropoulou, a viticulturist and oenologist. A husband, wife and their son, an oenology student form the entire team of the winery.
 Haroula started out her career as a viticulturist, and work for most of the vineyard owners in Naoussa and Amindeon.  Over the years along with her husband they have purchased vineyards in Naoussa; simply because she wanted to verify the instructions that she was dispensing to her clients.  She explained that is one thing to give text book recommendations and another when you have first-hand experience. Eventually, with the vineyards mature and in full production the next logical step was to produce her own wine, that’s how Argatia winery was born.
A winery history in a glass - Argatia 
The first wine released was a 2004 Xinomavro, a white blend of Malagouzia, Assyrtiko and Athiri was added a few years later and more recently a red blend of Xinomavro, Negoska, Mavrodaphne and Moschomavro.
I was lucky enough during my visit to taste every Xinomavro Argatia produced since 2005; and I have to say, it was an amazing experience.

Currently available in the US.

Argatia Xinomavro 2009
A blend of three different vineyards, organically cultivated with sandy clay soil planted with two clones of Xinomavro. Aged in American and French oak for 12 months. The wine has a bright ruby color, with aromas of red fruit, violets, and tomatoes. On the palate the wine is earthy, mineral and spice.

Argatia white 2013

This blend of Malagouzia, Assyrtiko and Athiri has spent just about 6 hours on the skins, and aged in stainless steel.  Mineral notes combined with lemon, peach and herbs on the nose. Medium-bodied with balanced acidity on the palate with great structure and a long finish.


Saturday, October 11, 2014

The Wines of Madeira

The Wines of Madeira
Take an island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, 90% of it is mountainous and with volcanic soils. Now give it a tropical climate (never less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit) with high humidity at night time. 
Terrace the mountains and plant just about 400 hectares of vineyards with the vines growing on pergolas so you can grow your everyday vegetables under them and maybe even a banana tree here and there.
Harvest the never to be ripe grapes and try to make wine with them. Oh, and don't forget to heat the wine up to temperatures that shall remain unmentioned. Once you finish with heat, allow the wine to oxidize for good measure.
The end result? The beautiful wines of Madeira. From bone dry to extremely sweet, (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia) ranging from 3,5,10,15,20,30 and 40 year old blends, to a Colheita and Frasquera.
Sercial: Dry, Verdelho: Medium Dry
Boal: Medium Sweet, Malvasia/Malmsey: Sweet
Colheita: Vintage wine, with 5 years minimum age
Frasquera: Vintage wine with 20 years minimum age

The wines of Madeira have always been the secret of every oenophile out there. Wines with longevity-- some vintages available today go back 300 years and are practically indestructible.

Madeira has only 8 wineries in total, and only 6 are able to export wine (one of them being new and unable to release wines yet, and one winery that can only sell locally). With 6 wineries to supply the entire world with Madeira wine, demand and supply are never equal. It is no wonder they are not always available, but once obtained is a treasure worth sharing with friends.

H.M. Borges Sercial 1979
Aromas of dates, apricot, figs, peach and orange. Clean and dry medium-bodied wine, beautifully balanced and great acidity. Big and long dry finish, with flavors of spicy wood, honey and nutty lingering.
D’Oliveiras Terrantez 1977
Aromas of fig, walnuts and ‘brandy’ followed by tried fruits, chocolate and a combination of citrus and woody aromas. Soft and round on the palate, with soft acidity and flavors of orange and lemon lingering on the palate. Long persistent finish.
H&H Single Harvest Colheita 2003
Aromas of green apples, medium-bodied and medium dry on the palate with flavors of cocoa and coffee. Bright acidity on the finish.
Justino’s Colheita 1995
Nutty, fig and toasty aromas, soft and round on the palate with subtle acidity and a rich mouthfeel. Long woody finish.
H&H Single Harvest Boal 2000

Aromas of apple, peach and apricot combined with notes of smoke and iodine.  Medium-bodied with honey notes, long spicy lingering finish.